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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. But, situated prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble place securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.